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Dan Hughes

Wednesday May 5, Blue Ridge GA to Townsend TN

More of the same; wonderful roads, beautiful mountains, blue skies and fluffy white clouds. Today I traveled from Blue Ridge GA to Townsend TN almost exclusively on narrow twisty two-laners with smooth surfaces. Not completely, because it’s getting difficult to bypass those places where we’re forced onto the proved-up versions on the good roads. If you’re a local and know all the back roads you can skip those.

Left Blue Ridge on GA 60 Northward into NC to pick up US 64 / 74 to head into the high mountains. Then US 74 to Andrews at which point the road becomes US 74 / 19 / 129. Rode US 129 into Robbinsville. The objective road was NC 143 out of Robbinsville, also known as the Cherohala Skyway. US 64 has been basically ruined for hundreds of miles across TN; a highly proved-up four-laner and US 74 is the same until about Andrews where it becomes a proved- up two-laner. US 74 frommabout Murphy NC to Andrews runs through a wide beautiful valley. And, a river runs through it; Valley River. US 129, on the other hand remains a narrow twisty two-laner; very narrow, very twisty.

US 129 and NC 143 are world-famous roads to Denizens of Biker Trash Land. US 129 is major twisty road and has been re-surfaced since Mary and I were last through here. It’s still very narrow and is one of those olde-timey hug the Earth’s surface roads.

Cherohala Skyway was completed in 1996 and so is a wide two-laner and unfortunately has mostly wide sweepers. This road could be ridden very rapidly, but the posted limit is mostly 35 MPH. A beautiful road that goes up high and runs along the ridges. Lots of long views of the mountains. It was very cool up there this morning and felt especially good.

The Skyway ends at Tellico Plains TN and I took a short break at the Biker Friendly service station on the outskirts of town. Not a lot of other bikers out yet so I didn’t get a chance to chat with other Denizens. Took TN 360 out of Tellicoa Plains with the next objective road being The Foothills Parkway. TN 360 is another beauty and intersects US 411 at Vonore. At 411 there were signs saying that US 129 was closed. I didn’t have to use 129 for too many miles to get to the Foothills Parkway, so I asked about where the road was closed. It was closed just beyond the entrance to the Parkway at the TN / NC line. So I rode TN 72 to 129 and then rode the Parkway to Walland TN. Yet another beauty through the mountains with lots of long views. Two full days of road riding and running.

From Walland I putt-putted here to Townsend near the West entrance to Great Smoky Mountain National Park. Tonight I’m in an EconoLodge that was previously a Comfort Inn. It’s a very nice place and the rate is very good, too. Last night I was in a Comfort Inn that was also very nice and reasonable. I suspect that these good rates will end as soon as school is out for the summer.

In addition to the most excellent road riding and touring and the nice and reasonable places to stay, I have additional very good news. I have found a road that bypasses both Pigeon Forge and Gatlinburg. I plan to do exactly that and be on top of Clingmans Dome early tomorrow morning.

May 5, 2010 Posted by | moto touring | | 4 Comments

Tuesday May 4, Athens GA to Blue Ridge GA

Riding the North Georgia mountains on the two-lane twisty roads is about the best way to spend a day. Pure Biker Trash Paradise all the time. Nothing but three-star roads today.

Left Athens a little after 8 this morning and headed North. Decided that the flat and straight roads South of Athens and into Florida would not be any fun. Plus the extreme temperature and humidity have nothing to offer.

Less than 50 miles out of Athens the roads are already first class biker roads. I picked up GA 105 just South of Baldwin and the fun started. Then GA 184 to Boydville and GA 17 to hit GA 197 at Clarksville. And now the fun got much better and by the time I reached GA 2/US 76 just West of Clayton I was smiling and grinning from ear to ear. GA 197 is one of the better roads that I’ve ridden in a very long time. All these roads have very smooth surfaces, they are very narrow, and they are very twisty. The posted speed limit is 35 MPH and that can be a little disconcerting. It’s like a city speed limit and it takes some time to realize that The Law is not hidden away around the curves waiting to nab everyone. After working past those thoughts, the roads become even more fun, if you get my drift. Well, I took a break at the GA 2 intersection to let the joy sink in thinking that it’s going to be hard to beat this. But it was only the beginning.

Took GA 2 / US 76 West to Hiawassee to find a bank so I could replenish my gas-money supply. The bank had a TV on and there in huge red numbers was a summary of the action on the Dow. It was very very ugly and the trading day was only about half over. So much for wealth accumulation. Actually, I’m not into wealth accumulation, and with what’s been happening recently it’s just as well that I’m not. All I need is to keep my gas-money supply from hitting empty. Today that seems to be highly unlikely, but I’m going to burn it while I’ve got it.

Putt-putted back to GA 17 / GA 75 just outside Hiawassee with the objective road being GA 180. Ran down to Suches on miles and miles of three-star road to check out a legendary moto-only “resort”, named Two Wheels Only. The place has seen much better days and was not yet open for the season. Somewhat of a disappointment, but no big deal.

Picked up GA 60 at Suches and headed North back deep into the mountains. Another beauty. Three or four in a row. Reached an intersection at which I’ll have to make a decision about which road to take, so I decided to park here in Blue Ridge and put off the decision-making until tomorrow.

In addition to the most-excellent roads, the mountains are beautiful. And the skies are blue.

The roads today were all classic olde-timey twisty roads that hug the surface of the earth with decreasing-radius curves, reverse banking, Ss to the max and are void of cut and fills and wide sweepers. They are disappearing and already there are wide four-laner alternatives for all of them.

I’m already a little concerned about the thousands and thousands of miles of potential three-star roads that I would like to see this time out knowing that I can’t make them all. It’s a problem that I’ll have to deal with, I guess. We’ve got to ride these beautiful narrow two-laners while there some remaining. All too soon, there will be nothing left but wide sweepers and, shudder, wide proved up to the max four laners.

May 4, 2010 Posted by | moto touring | | Leave a comment

Riding on down into Georgia

A Tuesday April 27, Mars Hill NC to Clayton GA

Threatening weather again today; cold, wet, cloudy, and foggy at the higher elevations. We decide to simply give up on touring in the mountains and to head South and lower elevations to see what we could find. We left Mars Hill and headed across Asheville aiming for Pickens County in SC on SC 11. This is very familiar territory because I played here before I had to go seek Gainful Tax-Paying Employment. We took US 25 South of Asheville to pick up SC 11 at Jones Gap State Park.

At the intersection of the park road and SC 11 we stopped at what was formerly a gas station to get a bite to eat. There are several places like this around Pickens County. Gas stations converted to be convenience stores and restaurants, well so-called restaurants, but they serve food. This place like many others in these parts serve breakfast and lunch and then generally close up. We were here for breakfast, especially the grits. As usual, the food was great.

We putt-putted on out Westerly on SC 11 to Walhalla to get SC 183 West into Georgia and US 76. The weather was indeed much better down here and we saw blue skies and fluffy white clouds again. And the roads are great. Smooth surfaces, twisty with many wide sweepers. A world-famous moto biking area.

Later in the early afternoon, the threatening weather returned and the temperature was a balmy 46 F as we were kind of up in the mountains of North Georgia. So we parked again and not long afterwards the cold rains fell.

Wednesday April 28, Clayton GA to Athens GA
No rain today and the temperature is recovering very nicely. Today we’ll head down to Athens to visit Grandson Will, and his mom and dad, too.

Putt-putted around the North Georgia mountains under deep blue skies in the warming air. Everything has turned green here already and the scenes are beautiful. Almost all the two-lane roads around these parts are a joy to ride and run. We traveled on GA 17 and GA 15, and a couple of local roads. Great great riding. Finally picked up US 129 to ride into Athens.

A few words about the new road-running machine. It eats up the miles with ease and in very good comfort. Very nimble in the twisties, always on-demand torque for safe passing, smooth transmission. A joy to ride, and Mary agrees that is is the best bike we’ve ever owned and ridden. We did about 1400 miles ( x 1.6 for those other units ) for what is nominally a 1100 mile trip. Could have done much better if the weather had been more cooperative.

Thursday, Friday, and Saturday April 29 – May 1 in Athens
Wonderful visit and doing stuff with Will and family. Beautiful weather. Will is as exceptionally smart as his Granddad and a joy to spend time with. He has a t-shirt that says he is as handsome as his dad, too.

Sunday May 2, Athens to Pickens to Greenville
We’ve borrowed a car to ride up to Pickens, SC to visit my brother and then ride over to the airport in Greenville so Mary can catch a flight home. I have not been successful in getting her to change her mind about this Moto Road Trip. We’ll hook up a time or two for some together touring.

Monday May 3, Greenville and Athens
Raining hard today all over the East. I made it back to Athens but I’m stuck here for the day. The good news is that Grandson Will will be here this pm also. The forecast is that the rain will move out over night and I’ll have clear sailing tomorrow.

I’m still trying to decide on the initial direction to take; South to Florida to score a new State, or North back into the Georgia mountains. I guess I’ll decide after I get the bike packed up tomorrow morning.

May 3, 2010 Posted by | moto touring | | 2 Comments

Moto Road Trip to Athens, Georgia: April 21 to May 4, 2010

Wednesday, April 21, Porter Corners to Sayre/Waverley
We got a late start from Plank Road due to chilly temps and other duties. But once off we made good time. We started up Rt 7 but decided to jump on I88 in Cobleskill to make some time. Not a fun ride but we did reach Sayre, just West of Binghamton after picking up US 17. Stayed at the same Inn where we had stayed during our first trip South together back in June 2003. We found that things had changed there in the last seven years. However, we both enjoyed the trip back in time.

Thursday, April 22, Sayre to Berkeley Springs, West Virginia
We took US 220 out of Sayer and headed South. Picked up US 522 in Selinsgrove and rode it down to the end of PA. US 522 is a great ride. Tried to find motel in Hancock, MD, but there weren’t any. Went on down the road to Berkeley Springs, West Virginia and found a super froo-froo Spa type place that Mary said was wonderful.

While riding around the town looking for motels, we had spied a Real Bar-B-Que place, so we decided to try it out for supper. Worked out far better than expected; great ribs and great pulled-pork. While looking over the menu, we noticed that the place was also open for breakfast and that Fabulous Homemade Grits were were available. Decided to have breakfast the, too, and did. The grits were most excellent.

Friday April 23, Berkeley Springs to Covington, Virginia
Great, great roads today. Started out on WV 9 and picked up WV 29 just South of Paw Paw. Mary and I have ridden the roads in these parts several times. Rode WV 29 to pick up WV 259 at Baker. Putt-putted on down this fast road into Virginia and pulled into a run-down, used-to-be service station for a break. Now the corporate offices for Turner Hams, turnerhams.com is here in Fulks Corner. Also filled with tons o’ brick-a-brace. Mary loved the place.

One of the guys the recommended one of those local three-digit VA roads over to US 33 and then to US 220 south bound. Well, we must have ridden over three passes on these roads. Fast and twisty. Narrow two-laners without much of a shoulder. So far, the day has been nothing but Biker Trash Paradise. And yesterday wasn’t all that bad, either.

Putt-putted down US 220 into Covington and found a motel on the out skirts of town. Covington is a small industrial town with a really huge paper-making plant. We didn’t find anything of interest to us here. The ride on 220 was great.

Saturday April 24, Covington VA to Hillsville VA
We took VA 159 out of Covington to VA 311 to VA 42. Wonderful fast twisty roads again today, especially VA 42!! Then hit US 460 East bound to get to VA 8 heading for Floyd and maybe the Blue Ridge Parkway. Mary and I have been on these roads before, starting back in 2003 when we rode to Mountain City, and again in 2004 and maybe a couple or mor times since then. We strolled around Floyd thinking about stopping for the day but didn’t find a place. So we rode on down US 221 to Hillsville. US 221 is known as the little parkway and is a great biker ride.
And so ended another wonderful road-riding day.

Sunday April 25, Hillsville VA to Blowing Rock NC
We left Hillsville on US 221 aiming for VA 89 at Galax and the Blue Ridge Parkway. As we headed uphill toward the Parkway, the weather conditions started turning not so good; cool, cloudy, windy and very foggy. We could barely see the Parkway turn at the top of the ridge and so continued down the other side. Just barely moving in the deep, wet, and very cool fog. This would prove to be the first of several attempts to ride the Parkway over the next two days; none successful. We continued on VA 89 into Mount Airy, NC where we stopped to review our situation. The weather was threatening over on this side of the mountains, too, but it was dry for the time being.

We took US 601 out of Mount Airy, just kind of putt-putting along Southward. At NC 67 in Boonville we took a right off 601, looking for thinner lines on the Real Time Moto Road Trip Planner and heading back toward the mountains. Just as we made the turn Mary saw a real diner, so we found a parking place to check it out. The place, Tish’s Restaurant turned out to be a treasure of a find. The special of the day was the After-Service Sunday Buffet. We just made it through the line and got seated when we noticed the line backing up to the door of the place. While we enjoyed our really-home-cooked food, people constantly came into the place. A most-excellent food find.

We continued along NC 67 aiming for the mountains. The weather was holding and the road was great. We picked up NC 268 in Elkin and run this narrow, smooth two-laner to US 321 South of Blowing Rock and ride up the mountain, the weather still holding. Mary loves Blowing Rock and we’ve stopped here several times. We find an adorable little room and settle in after walking the town streets. After our big lunch at Tish’s we get a sandwich to go from a froo-froo place that we’ve stopped at to get sandwiches to eat along the side of the Parkway.

Another road-running day on the small twisty roads in the mountains.

Monday April 26, Blowing Rock NC to Mars Hill NC
We left Blowing Rock on US 221 South with the objective to ride the Parkway. Well, our Fair Weather Crystal must have run out of mojo today. Cold, windy, foggy, rainy weather; far far from fair weather. The thermometer says it’s 50 F, so we cross the Parkway and headed down the mountain looking for warmer temperature. We’re for sure above the Springline up here and the tress don’t have many leaves out yet.

We continue along 221 heading South, but it doesn’t get much warmer. US 221 becomes a wide four-laner and I see a small-line road, NC 226A, that goes back up to the Parkway and over to Spruce Pines, another place that we’ve ridden several times. The ride up Roan Mountain is a world famous Biker Trash road and we’ve been over a few times. We stop at the side of the road just after getting onto 226A to chat about the weather and estimate the best way forward. We decide to give the Parkway another try.

NC 226A is a wonderful Biker Trash Road, and while we’re stopped several machines pass by heading up the mountain. It’s another wonderful ride up the mountain and we see a few places that we would stop and stay if the weather was more favorable. This time we have to zip on by.
We hit US 19E at Spruce Pine and head West. At Burnsville our Fair Weather Crystal hits empty and we have cold rain. We decide to try to make it to Asheville, and head off for our last attempt for the day. We landed here in Mars Hill.

April 29, 2010 Posted by | moto touring | | Leave a comment

Moto Trip Report: Part 2. An Interlude

The God of Motorcycle Wanderlust and the Goddess of Natural Wonders made me do it.

Picked up the new moto yesterday and put a few break-in miles on the odo. At the present time I’m on schedule to be off on the next moto road trip in a month ( +/- ) or so. Hope to be on the road for 4 or 5 months on the new machine. Mary will hook up with me a couple of times and that always means much more enjoyable road touring.

The new moto has a transversely-mounted in-line 4 motor and definitely falls into the go-fastest category. Seems to have unlimited torque and almost don’t need the first 4 gears. If all the conditions are right, maybe I can break my personal two-wheeled land speed record of 2 miles per minute. But to get to 2.5 would require that a long list of conditions be met. With governments at all levels from village to federal in bad need of cash, I’m seeing lots o’ pulled-over cars with flashing lights sitting behind them.

March 18, 2010 Posted by | moto touring | | 1 Comment

Moto Trip Report: Part 1. The Most Beautiful Road in America

The Motorcycle God of Wanderlust and the Goddess of Natural Wonders made me do it.

Mary, the love of my life, and the best lover ever in my life, insisted that this road trip be one for me; go slow, go fast, go where I want to, eat what, where and when I want to, stay in any motel that I want to. As usual there are no reservations and no destinations decided in advance. Look at the Real-Time Road Trip Planner and decide which of the Small-Line Roads to check out. Get to an intersection and decide which road to take. Follow the twisty roads, stop and smell the roses, take in the deep blue skies and fluffy white clouds. There was no other plan. The best Moto Road Trips don’t have Plans.

It was a most excellent Moto Road Trip. About eight weeks with every day spent in Biker Trash Paradise. Rode roads, ran roads, and toured for about 12,000 miles (19,000 km) in Western and Northwestern United States. Saw some beautiful and wondrous sights and met some interesting people. I hope do be able to do lots more of this πŸ™‚

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November 14, 2008 Posted by | moto touring | | 3 Comments

Trip Report: Moto Touring Part 0

Executive Summary

“When you’re running the roads, you can’t watch for The Law.” me

We had a most excellent little putt-putt down into the kudzu and grits belts. Racked up 2200 miles on the way down. Not bad for a trip that is nominally 1100 miles.

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June 2, 2008 Posted by | moto touring | | Leave a comment

Gone Moto Touring

I’m getting ready to take off on the moto for a couple of months. Assuming that the tons o’ snow here melt real soon. Back late May to early June.

March 14, 2008 Posted by | moto touring | | Leave a comment